The final part of the painting process is to retouch some of the lighter colours. I have passed my concerns on to Army painter but I cant see them designing a new tin just for me! Having got my gripe out of the way, I have to say that otherwise the product is excellent and does do what it says on the (oversized) tin! This isn’t to do with the seal on the lid but the air that gets trapped as the level in the tin goes down. The quick shade is too expensive, more because I have yet to completely finish a tin before it starts to ‘skin’ over. I know that there are reservations about using this stuff and to be fair I agree with many. I prefer the Dark tone, which is a black shade, rather than the dark brown strong tone, although some prefer to use strong tone over red. I do not ‘dip’ the models as army painter advise, simply paint the model with the quick shade. However, I do like the finish that you get with the Army painter quick shade. Now you could use, either an Army painter ink or another brand – I’ve used the Windsor & Newton Ink in the past to good effect. The next stage is to use the army painter quick shade to add depth and definition to the models. As we are gluing two painted surfaces together, super glue will be more effective than polystyrene cement.

I’ve now attached the back packs to the troops using super glue. If you prefer, you can use off white for these as well. These were usually made from canvass or a strong linen and although they started out as perhaps a paler shade than this, they would have been discoloured from use. The other colour the I have used is Iraqi Sand 70819 for the food haversacks. To be fair, the quick shade will darken and dirty this colour to a less garish red, so the effect is about right for my eyes. Without repeating the general thread of this conversation, my view is simply to take a pragmatic approach, they were red. There is a fair degree of discourse that takes place on forums as to what colour or shade British redcoats really were. The next colour is Red 70957 for the jackets and the bottom of the shako plumes. So short sharp bursts work for me! It’s not so daunting to work through a battalion in this way, over the course of a week, you will find that the unit moves to completion.īack to the painting. However, first of all my back would seize up after a couple of hours, then my eyes will get tired, until finally, I start to make mistakes. Any spare time that I have, I use to paint a couple or more figures in one colour and the Battalion gradually takes shape. I do admire those painters that can sit and gallop through 24 figures in one sitting. This is why the process works so well for me. It is easy for me to find 10 or 20 minutes to paint the plumes and shako plates rather than block out a whole evening or part of my weekend trying to complete a whole figure or batch of figures. Notice that I will have to use these colours again, but the point about the batch paint process is that small progress is better than no progress. The shako plates are painted with 70801 Brass. Having painted the shakos black, it is a straight forward job to paint the plumes in white – I use Vallejo off white 70820.

Painting over quickshade